The Wonder of the Wonderland Trail: Discovering Mowich Lake and the Best Kept Secret of the Tahoma Wilderness

Day 1: July 21, 2023 - Starting the Journey

5:30 pm

The last few hours of the work day were impossible to focus on as the mountains were begging for my undivided attention. 5:30pm struck, and I slammed my laptop shut and ran to the car. Mt. Tahoma, the Mother of Waters awaited in the distance. Accompanied by none other than my own “mountain momma”, we set towards the sunset with nothing but wilderness ahead.

We drove along the winding, gravel mountain road up the steep curves of the Carbon River area, towards Mowich Lake Trail. We parked alongside the enchanting wilderness of Mt. Rainier National Park, and walked in to Mowich Lake Campground, both to see what the grounds were like, and to get a glimpse at this alpine lake I have heard so much about. There are several spots to camp in this rustic campground, including some first-come-first-serve sites. Each has a tent pad that will fit two tents, and has an adjacent picnic table. There is a bathroom at the campground trailhead, which also serves as the trailhead to Tolmie Peak Lookout, and Spray Falls.

Once we had arrived to the campground, it was completely full and all hope of grabbing a site was quickly dashed — silly of me to think we had a chance on a Friday evening during the summer at one of the most popular alpine lake destinations in Washington State. We still opted for a quick walk around the lake to experience the nature, which didn’t disappoint us in the slightest. Tahoma, or “Miss Ma’am”, as my mom and I refer to her sometimes, was working off her own weather system, and we knew we were in for spectacular views if we could just find the right campsite.

So, back to the car we went, and down the (very incredibly dusty) dirt road we went in search of a spectacular view. Soon enough, we came to Evans Creek Campground and ORV Park. Into the darkening woods and once again up a winding backcountry road for a few uncertain miles we went, until we eventually found ourselves tucked in a quiet little corner of Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

Day 2: July 22, 2023 - Into the Wilderness

7:09 am

Either the chirping birds, the rising sun, or the biting dampness of the morning chill woke me later than expected, and mom and I got back in the car to head back up the trail to Mowich Lake Campground so that we could hike to Eagle Rock Viewpoint along Spray Park Trail. The road leading up to Mowich Lake was busier than the day before, and we had to park further down, adding to our overall distance.

The trail was a bit more challenging than expected as well, with a lot more steep elevation gains and declines than we are used to on our day hikes. But, the view was definitely worth it.

We went back up the trail to the lake, and cooled off by dipping in for a few minutes while we waited for our camp lunch to re-hydrate (by the way - we do not recommend the Mexican Quinoa Bowl). Once our tummies were full of lunch and our eyes were full of spectacular Rainier views, we we back down the forest service road one more time in search of a place to sleep for the night.

I had remembered a spot coming up the road the first time that would offer us the most sublime view for sunrise, if I could just find it once again. That is the magic of backcountry camping, half of the fun is in exploring the wilderness for the best view you can get… and finally, I found it!

We pulled off the road, trekked through the dirt a bit, and set up our tents in a very remote, undisclosed location (it’s not that I am gate-keeping, I just don’t want to encourage swarms of people to go to this particular site — go explore and find an even better one!).

We had dinner, shared stories, and watched the sunset put on the most dazzling show for us before we tucked in to our sleeping bags and watched the stars above while drifting off to sleep.

Day 3: July 23, 2023 - Journey’s End

5:38 am

Sunrise greeted us to a warmed morning than we had expected, and a symphony of birds provided the perfect backdrop for oatmeal and coffee. The wildflowers caught my attention in the morning light, which is where a majority of the photos here come from. We took in the scenery a little more, and then set off back towards home, wishing Tahoma a “see you next time”, until we are able to make the trip (and more memories) together again.

Key Details:

  • Duration: 2 days, 2 nights

  • Difficulty Level: Easy - Moderate

Research and Planning: AllTrails, Washington Trails Association, Google Earth, National Parks

Gear Selection: Featherstone UL Granite 2p Tent, sleep system, cook system, bear spray, travel journal, camera, sunscreen + sunglasses, bug spray/headnet

Permits and Logistics: America The Beautiful Pass

Mental Preparedness: Temperature/Climate, (lack of) access to water, wilderness/wildlife

Scenery and Points of Interest: Serene forests, alpine lakes and wildflower meadows

Mt. Rainier behind Mowich Lake
sunset in the cascades
Sunset in the Cascades. Tent backcountry camping
Colorful sunset in the Cascade Mountain Range
Wildflowers in Mt. Rainier National Park
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Paddle to Muckleshoot: Honoring Our Warriors of Past and Present

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Over The River And Through The Woods to Greenwater Lakes We Go